Our weekly roundup of the bites and bevvies we can’t stop thinking about
By The Editors
From the new (Cosecha Cocina) to the familiar (Lindey’s), we went out this week in search of satisfying food to shake off the cold.
St. Patrick’s Day has always been a day of tradition in my (rather Irish) family. My mom would make loaves of soda bread from an old family recipe, while corned beef and cabbage bathed slowly in Guinness in a slow cooker. The aroma of fresh bread and stewing meat would warm the whole house. This year, my husband and I started a new tradition I hope sticks—making corned beef from scratch. (Actually, it was so simple, we’ll probably make it part of our regular recipe rotation.) Loosely following the New York Times recipe, we bought five and a half pounds of beef brisket from The Butcher & Grocer and pickling spices from North Market Spices. We let the beef brine for nearly a week, and come St. Patrick’s Day, cooked it slowly in ginger beer and Conway’s Irish Ale from Great Lakes Brewing Co. Paired with slices of homemade soda bread and cabbage sauteed in Cabbage Patch seasoning, also from North Market Spices, it was a meal that (sorry!) would rival my mom’s. Plus, we have plenty of leftovers so we’ll be having corned beef hash for breakfast and will be making Irish tacos for dinner.
When the rumor mill started churning about Chris Crader’s new project, they had me at “Silas Caeton is going to cook Mexican food.” The chef (Veritas Tavern, Salt & Pine) is now running the kitchen at Cosecha Cocina, the latest addition to Crader’s growing empire (Harvest, Curio, The Sycamore). I tried lunch at the Italian Village spot on Monday and left with a promising first impression. The Pork Posole Verde ($8) was excellent, with a satisfying body, tangy tomatillos and tender pork. And we loved the Matt Swint-crafted bread on the tortas. It’s not quite like any torta bread we’ve had before—it’s typically a broad, round roll, with a soft interior and better defined, more crusty exterior—but it was flavorful independent of the fillings and sturdy enough to stand up to them. We tried the pork meatball and vegetable tortas and would go for the meatball again. Shagbark Seed & Mill tortilla chips and an herbal tomato and mint salsa with a touch of sweetness were served on the side. Next time, I’ll visit at margarita o’clock.
Brunch at Lindey’s always feels like such a treat. A well-spoken waiter in a crisply pressed white shirt and tie handing me a French press coffee lends a special air of indulgence to a Saturday morning. I normally order the Chef’s Omelette ($9.50)—a decision I’ve yet to regret—but I wanted something a little more hearty on my last visit. I wavered between the Prime Rib Hash ($16) and the Huevos Rancheros ($14), but the latter won out. I’m so glad it did. I get nervous about the potential unsavory texture of pork belly, but Lindey’s delivered on the promise of crispy. Couple that with black beans, pickled veggies and a sunny side egg in a warm—but not too warm—red chile sauce, and I could’ve (should’ve) licked the bowl clean. The crispy tortillas didn’t do much for me, but the rest of the dish was certainly enough.
When life is crazy-busy, nothing beats the simple act of catching up with friends over food. This week, instead of rushing from the office to a busy restaurant, my best girlfriends and I opted to stay in for something home-cooked, and the result was the best meal I had all week: a riff on Northstar Cafe‘s Buddha Bowl with chicken, spicy peanut sauce and a rainbow of roasted veg. Northstar’s bowl is one of my favorite meals—a go-to when I’m having one of those days—and I’m not sure I could say anything really beats the original. But this was pretty darn close.