Head to the ‘burbs for beer, brats and brunch at Kindred Artisan Ales’ new food trailer.

By Jenny Rogers

Though Kindred Artisan Ales has been a member of the Columbus brewery scene for just a year, it’s putting some changes on the menu. The brewery just hired chef Ben Beardsley and installed a permanent walk-up food trailer, where Beardsley’s serving updated pub grub and Sunday brunch.

“My inspiration was classic preparation for the Midwestern palate,” says Beardsley, whose resume includes stints at The Blackwell Inn, Rafter’s Restaurant at Deer Creek State Park, Dragonfly Neo-V and Till Dynamic Fare.

Take his bratwurst with bacon-loaded sauerkraut. “The kraut on that brat is similar to one in a lot of James Beard’s recipes but, instead of making the kraut the main dish, I pulled it out and made it a topping.” This brat is a little on the decadent side—but so worth trying for the bacon kraut.

Another sausage sandwich—Italian sausage topped with peppers and onions and sitting atop finely chopped giardiniera—was unfussy and juicy, just like it should be. Beardsley’s also making a fork-and-knife-worthy spicy chicken sandwich—by far the biggest crowd pleaser when I stopped by last weekend—brings bearable heat. (Think Nashville hot chicken on the mild side.) Rounding out the menu are hand-cut fries with a cashew cream sauce. Menu items cost $5 to $9.

Beardsley’s favorite, an updated take on the taco salad, didn’t make the final cut for his debut menu, but it was delicious insight to his style. The salad included aged manchego cheese, chorizo, fire-roasted salsa, onion and herb relish, and a simple olive oil and citrus dressing.

A limited Sunday brunch menu—served noon to 3 p.m.—includes two options: a breakfast burrito made with chorizo, smoked beer cheese, pico de gallo and an egg, and a lox flatbread topped with smoked salmon, cream cheese, dill, watercress, caper berries, pickled onions and black pepper.

In addition to the trailer, the taproom will continue to host a rotating lineup of food trucks and, down the road, guest chefs might be invited to serve pop-up dinners or special beer-pairing menus.

Other changes are coming to the brewery: Kindred will lose the “Artisan Ales” in its name and become simply Kindred Beer.

What pairs with bratwurst?

The Kindred brewery staff has paired each item on the menu with a brew:

Chicken sandwich with Waves, an American pale ale

Kraut-topped bratwurst with Kindred Wit, a spicy Belgian-style white ale

Breakfast burrito with Long Sleeves, a red rye IPA

Lox flatbread with S.O.P., a saison

Italian sausage sandwich with Farmhouse Pale Ale

Oh, and sour lovers? You’re in luck. The beers currently on tap are brewed in a 15,000-square-foot production brewery located down the road, but the taproom is where their sour ale program lives. Hundreds of barrels of sour brews will make a mid-spring debut, just in time for patio season.

Kindred Beer Tasting Room & Barrel House

505 Morrison Rd., Gahanna

614-528-1226

Food is served starting at 4 p.m. on weekdays and noon to 3 p.m. on Sunday

http://www.kindredbeer.com/

Italian sausage sandwich at Kindred Artisan Ales / Photo courtesy Kindred Artisan Ales